This route has everything. Dense forests, big peaks, endless views. Meadows full of wildflowers, crystal-clear lakes. Steep climbs, sketchy river crossings, and camp wherever you want (almost). Real backpacking in the Canadian Rockies.

This isn’t a popular route. Very few people do it each year. You need to be comfortable crossing rivers without bridges and navigating off-trail sections.

Prime grizzly habitat. Exercise all the usual precautions - bear spray, make noise, hang your food. There are no bear lockers or hang points past Fish Lakes, so bring a canister or a grizzly-rated bag (Ursack/Adotek).

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Day 1

Hitchhike aside, this was supposed to be an easy day, and it was. Some hiking, some elevation gain, a good warm-up.

It started with a two-hour drive from Calgary to the Helen Lake trailhead, where I parked. The trail isn’t a loop, although with some effort it can be turned into one (my plan for 2026).

I left the car and went to catch a ride. After some effort (meh, Alberta truly sucks for hitchhiking), I managed to get one. It’s just 9 km to Mosquito Creek trailhead, where I finally hit the trail around 5 pm.

The first stretch was pretty uneventful, following Mosquito Creek until the uphill climb to North Molar Pass.

North Molar Pass is stunning. Alpine flowers and rounded peaks all around. The sun was out, and after weeks of humidity and rain, it finally felt like the perfect time for an adventure. Even the mosquitos were almost gone.

I passed an unnamed lake and a small unnamed peak along the way.

The final push to the top was steep. I checked in at 2601 m (8,533 ft), which is high compared to most of the lower-elevation hikes in Banff.

By then the sun was almost gone, and the pass leading toward Fish Lakes was already falling into shadow.

From the pass, I got my first view of Fish Lakes far below. In the distance: the Three Brothers, Little Cataract, and Cataract Peak.

Not long after, I reached camp. This site requires reservations and is usually hard to get, but I had managed to secure a spot. The campground was full, and by the time I arrived at 9 pm, I went straight to bed.

Day 2

Today’s route: over Pipestone Pass and down to Devon Lakes. One of the best stretches in Banff backcountry.

From here, no more people. I wouldn’t see anyone for almost three days, not until Helen Lake trailhead.

Fish Lakes was beautiful at dawn, but the campsite sucked. Tents crammed side by side, I woke up to every cough, zipper, and shuffle. Earplugs are a must in reserved backcountry zones.

I was up around 7:00, ready for breakfast until I remembered I hadn’t soaked it overnight. I don’t carry a stove from May to October - I cold-soak everything. Easy fix: swap breakfast and lunch.

So breakfast became instant potatoes, bacon bits, coconut milk, roasted sunflower seeds, pre-toasted German multigrain bread, and Tuscany-style sausages. Not a bad way to start the day. The sunrise over Fish Lakes made it even better.

Packed up and headed for Devon Lakes. Plan was to push to the lower lakes, which looked way better than the upper basin on satellite imagery. From here on, all random camping, but permits are still required.

Morning started with a steady climb. I detoured through a meadow to a hidden lake. A small stream came out of it, so I filled a bottle before heading back toward the ridge.

The ridge dropped back toward the official route at Moose Lake. From above it looked perfect for a swim on a hot day.

The trail stayed high above the Valley of Abundance - lush, remote, and thick with bear sign. Parks Canada warns hikers to avoid it. I still plan a return trip here someday.

Moose Lake was quiet, tucked off the maps in most apps. I stripped down, dove in, cold water felt amazing. Washed my shirt too - wet fabric helps on the uphill.

Above the lake, the climb to Pipestone Pass got warmer, but the views got better: Cataract Peak (3333 m / 10,935 ft), Cyclone Mountain (3050 m / 10,007 ft), and the white tongue of Drummond Glacier across the horizon.

The ridge was easy walking, trail weaving along the crest. Big sky, endless mountains.

I stopped for lunch, ate what I’d soaked earlier. The whole pass was right there below me.

Past a recent landslide, the route continued toward tomorrow’s terrain: Watermelon Peak (3095 m / 10,154 ft), Bobac Mountain (3088 m / 10,131 ft), and the ridges toward Dolomite Creek.

I tested PeakFinder on the descent, pinning names to peaks. Useful app. (Not sponsored, I just like it.)

After Quartzite Col (a good but technical route to Devon Lakes, off to the left), things opened up near Devon Lakes. Mount Willingdon (3376 m / 11,076 ft) and Crown Peak (3355 m / 11,007 ft) came into view above meadows full of marmots and bear sign.

I passed Upper Devon Lake first, Devon Mountain rising steeply behind. The basin felt exposed, windy on most days, so I kept going.

Pushing through willows and rough ground, the Lower Devon Lakes came into view - turquoise water filling a huge amphitheater of stone. Damn.

The cherry on top.

I swam, stretched out in the sun, cooked dinner by the shore. One of the best evenings I’ve had in the backcountry.

A small rise above the lake had the perfect tent site. Quiet, wild, unforgettable.

Woke up to this.

Day 3

Today’s route: along the Siffleur River to Dolomite Creek. Crossing both is required. Most of the trail is in the forest, not much to see. Random camping isn’t well established here, but other trip reports mentioned a campsite called Confluence - that’s where I’m headed. One of the longest days, but mostly flat.

Hit the trail right after breakfast, heading back the way I came yesterday, and then turning right toward Siffleur Wilderness Area.

Down into the valley, then along the Siffleur River.

Not much going on here. Just river and trees. The trail isn’t well marked - this is the least travelled section.

I came across an abandoned ranger cabin and a well-established hidden campground. Didn’t take any photos though, sorry. Had lunch and kept going until I hit the Siffleur River crossing. Ankle deep (I’m 6’2”) and not very cold.

Fresh bear tracks in the mud. Good reminder to stay alert - we are not alone.

A few km later, the Dolomite Creek crossing. The creek is way rougher than the Siffleur River. Other people left sticks for balance - use them. I had my trekking poles.

Kept pushing until the calm waters of Isabella Lake.

There’s a well-established ranger cabin here where you can camp. But it was too early, and I’d rather walk than sit around at camp doing nothing. Pushed on toward Confluence campsite.

Someone tried to mark this trail, but the riverbank is huge and the edges are washed out. Instead of jumping like a mountain goat through the markings, I just walked through the riverbank. My feet were already wet from the crossings anyway. Good decision.

I didn’t have the exact location of Confluence campsite, so I walked in circles for a bit, couldn’t find it. Eventually found a suitable spot for the night. Later discovered a forgotten tent stake, so someone definitely camped here before.

Not the best spot for a tent. My X-Mid Pro 2 barely fit, but I managed to pitch it and slept well. One concern was that the spot is squeezed tight between mountains - might be cold in the morning. Which turned out to be right.

Day 4

Plan for today: up to Dolomite Pass, over to Lake Alice, down to Lake Katherine, up through Helen Lake Ridge, then down to the trailhead where I parked.

Cold morning. 1°C / 33.8°F. Around 4-5am I woke up shivering, but managed to tuck in my quilt better and slept another 2-3 hours.

Sun won’t reach this spot for another 3-4 hours because of the mountains, so I ate breakfast quick and headed out.

Hiker Trash tip of the day: Cross rivers wearing your trail runners - they dry out fast while you walk. Keep separate dry Alpha Direct socks for camp (very light) and bread bags over them to keep your feet warm and dry.

Ancient campfire pit marks the spot. Someone stayed here a long time ago.

The valley opened up here. Dolomite Creek with a big unnamed peak behind. I couldn’t find it on the map.

A few kilometers later, I reached Confluence Camp. 2-3 km from where I’d slept. North side of the river, so one more crossing.

Steady uphill through forest. Few more river crossings. I looked back down at the valley.

Higher up, waterfalls everywhere. Sun came out. I stopped at the pass for a dip in the creek.

After the pass, I dropped down to a flat plateau. Lake Alice was ahead - steep climb. I took a break to get ready. The plateau below was beautiful.

Looking back at the plateau from the climb to Lake Alice.

The climb paid off. Lake Alice was turquoise, mountains all around. Few flat spots for tents. Perfect.

Dolomite Peak to the north. There’s a route back to Mosquito Creek via Dolomite Circuit. I’ll explore it next time, but for now I turned southeast toward Lake Katherine.

Almost Martian except for small lakes and a little bit of vegetation.

Easy climb to Lake Katherine. The lake is bigger than I expected. Crowfoot Glacier shines in the background.

I scrambled up to Helen Lake Ridge viewpoint. Not technical, just steep. Worth it for the views.

Looking south at Banff backcountry. Peaks everywhere.

Helen Lake is a tourist trap, so it was packed - families, kids, selfie sticks. I didn’t stop, straight down to the parking lot.

I saw Mt Assiniboine in the distance on the way down. Tiny, far south.

Back at the car. I sat on the tailgate eating pretzel sticks, looking at Bow Lake and Crowfoot Mountain. Four days, good trip.

Next time I’ll loop around Devon Lakes and Dolomite Circuit.